Vang Vieng

Like a rural scene from an Oriental silk painting, Vang Vieng crouches low over the Nam Song with a backdrop of serene cliffs and a tapestry of vivid green paddy fields. Thanks to the iron fist of the Lao government finally making its presence felt in 2012 (when the river rave bars were finally closed down), the increasingly toxic party scene has been banished and the community is recalibrating itself as an outdoor paradise home with some achingly lovely boutique hotels and a raft of adrenalin-inducing and nature-based activities.

For the first time in years Western families and a more mature crowd are visiting (many en route to fabled Luang Prabang), stopping to kayak the Nam Song, go caving and climb the karsts. Relief pretty much describes the current feeling of Vang Vieng’s inhabitants. It is mixed with a dose of anxiety as to how they are going to fill their empty guesthouses, for at its height 170,000 footfalls swept through the town on a yearly basis. Still, locals are glad that Vang Vieng is now untroubled by thumping music, disrespectful teens and the misconception that anything goes.

Spend a few days here – rent a scooter, take a motorcycle tour, go tubing, trekking – and prepare to manually close your jaw as you gape at one of Laos‘ most stunningly picturesque spots.

When the best time to visit Vang Vieng

The best time to visit Vang Vieng is during the dry season from November to March, when temperatures are somewhat cooler. March to May is the hot season and the temperatures can reach 40ºC or higher. The wet season runs from May to October and the rains can make traveling around the surrounding area difficult.

Getting There & Away

Bike & Motorbike

Vang Vieng is easily negotiated on foot. Renting a bicycle (per day 10,000K) or mountain bike (per day 30,000K) is also popular; they’re available almost everywhere. Most of the same places also rent motorcycles for about 50,000K per day (automatics cost 70,000K).

Bus & Mini Bus

Buses, minibuses depart from the bus terminal about 2km north of town, although if you’re coming in from Vientiane you’ll most likely be dropped off at or near the bus stop near the former runway, a short walk from the Centre of town. When leaving Vang Vieng, be aware that, even if you purchased your tickets at the bus station, the more expensive minibuses and air-con buses often cater predominately to falang (Westerners) and will circle town, picking up people at their guesthouses, adding as much as an additional hour to the departure time.

Heading north, buses for the Luang Prabang stop at the bus terminal for about five minutes en route from Vientiane about every hour between 11am and 8pm. All the services below also stop at Kasi and Phu Khoun (for Phonsavan).

Heading south, there are several bus options to Vientiane, all of which are shown below.

Sights & Activities

Tham Jang

The most famous of the caves, Tham Jang, was used as a bunker in defence against marauding jęen hór (Yunnanese Chinese) in the early 19th century (jąng means ‘steadfast’). Stairs lead up to the main cavern entrance.

Tham Loup & Tham Hoi

From Tham Sang a signed path takes you 1km northwest through rice fields to the entrances of Tham Loup & Tham Hoi. The entrance to Tham Hoi is guarded by a large Buddha figure; reportedly the cave continues about 3km into the limestone and an underground lake. Tham Loup is a large and delightfully untouched cavern with some impressive stalactites.

Tham Nam

About 400m south of Tham Hoi, along a well-used path, is the highlight of this trip, Tham Nam . The cave is about 500m long and a tributary of the Nam Song flows out of its low entrance. In the dry season you can wade into the cave, but when the water is higher you need to take a tube from the friendly woman near the entrance; the tube and headlamp are included in the entrance fee. Dragging yourself through the tunnel on the fixed rope is fun.

Tham Phu Kham

The vast Tham Phu Kham is considered sacred by Lao and is popular largely due to the lagoon in the cave. The beautiful green-blue waters are perfect for a dip after the stiff climb. The main cave chamber contains a Thai bronze ­reclining Buddha, and from here deeper galleries branch off into the mountain. To get here, come along a scenic but unpaved road to the village of Ban Na Thong. From Ban Na Thong follow the signs towards the cliff and climb a stiff 200m through scrub forest.

Tham Sang Triangle

A popular half-day trip that’s easy to do on your own takes in Tham Sang plus three other caves within a short walk. Begin this caving odyssey by riding a motorcycle or taking a jumbo 13km north along Rte 13, turning left a few hundred metres beyond the barely readable Km 169 stone. A rough road leads to the river, where you cross a toll bridge (5000K), or during the wet season, a boatman will ferry you across to Ban Tham Sang (20,000K return). Tham Sang itself is right here, as is a small restaurant.

Tham Sang , meaning ‘Elephant Cave’, is a small cavern containing a few Buddha images and a Buddha ‘footprint’, plus the (vaguely) elephant-shaped stalactite that gives the cave its name. It’s best visited in the morning when light enters the cave.

Eating & Drinking

Restaurant du Crabe d’Or

Set in the tasteful gardens of the Riverside Boutique Resort this fine restaurant exudes high-end decor with a Lao flavor, and affords amazing views of the cliffs. The menu will please most palates with grilled salmon steak, pork cutlet with honey and lime sauce, as well as a raft of trad-Asian dishes. All delivered with panache. The best spot in town to enjoy the sunset over a glass of chilled Tattinger.

Living Room

Classy new custard-colored cafe with a funky sundowner terrace enjoying amazing karst views, a reggae soundtrack and a Lao – wait for it – Austrian fusion menu. Fresh juices, shakes (10,000K), soups, tofu, pork schnitzel and really inventive dishes such as spaghetti Vang Vieng – a kind of Bolognese meet spicy láhp salad. Delicious and fresh.

The Kitchen

Somewhere between a Lao kitchen and smart restaurant this place strikes a fine balance between informality and style. It’s often packed to the gills and once you’ve netted their coconut shrimp, pad thai, spare ribs and steamed fish, you’ll understand why. They also serve pizza and pasta dishes.

Ban Sabai Restaurant

In a prime location by the Nam Ou, you can tuck into English breakfasts or fruit salads come morning. By night it’s enchanting, the garden aglow with lanterns as the kitchen alchemises an Asian-fusion menu of zesty láhp salads, tom yum (tamarind and lemongrass) soup, and various seafood dishes. Decent steaks and well-executed pasta dishes too.