Xiangkhouang - Plain of Jars

In the northeast of Laos, lying across a flat high plateau is the province of Xieng-Khouang, most commonly known for the intriguing ‘Plain of Jars’. From the early 19th century until 1975, central Xieng-Khouang and the plain of jars was a recurring battle zone. It’s estimated that more bombs where dropped on Laos between 1964 and 1973, than in the Second World War. As a result, visitors are advised to stick close to guided trails as unexploded ordinance still litter the plain.

The hundreds of giant stone jars, some as large as 3.25 metres high are strewn all over the plateau –carved out of solid hunks of rock from surrounding mountains, no one really knows why they are there. Theories range from the view that they were made to store wine for a huge party to celebrate the conquest of Pakhanh City (Xieng Khouang). Other archeologists believe they were made to store dead human bodies, as was the practice of ancient believers. No one really knows.

The hot springs at Meuang Kham district are worth visiting, and Tham Piu cave is a sobering historical site, used as a bomb shelter by the villages during the Vietnam War. The province has a total population of around 200,000. Because of the altitude (average 1,200m) in Xieng Khouang, the climate is not too hot in the cool season and not too wet in the rainy season. Consisting of elevated green mountains and luxuriant valleys, the beautiful landscape is somewhat marred by the bomb craters. The war debris and unexploded bombs that are spread across the central and eastern areas of the province are the deadly legacy of the Vietnam War.

The Plain of Jars is considered the most distinctive and enigmatic of all Laos attractions. The large area around Phonsavan, the main city of Xieng Khouang Province is dotted with stone jars but no one has a clear idea as to why they are there.

The mysterious jars were carved from both sandstone and granite in various sizes from very small to about 3.5 metres high and are thought to be more than 2,000 years old. Legend has it that they were made to store rice wine while some believe they were for storing the dead. Until today the function of the jars is still disputed.

Best time to visit

The cool season is the best time to be visiting Xieng Khouang is Laos and the months are November to February. Visitors are advised to bring adequate warm clothing when travelling this destination during this period as the highland plains tend to be quite chilly during the last months of the year. Compared to many other parts of the country, Xieng Khouang reflects an ideal year round climate which is not too hot or too humid for human comfort levels. Even during the rainy season the days are not too hot or humid. Though until 1994 the area could only be visited as a part of a one day package tour it is now open for travelling in any form either individual or group. Three of the highest mountains in the region are located in this area. Rainfall occurs during the months of June to October with July and August receiving the heaviest rainfall.

Since the tropical monsoon climate means there will be differing forms of precipitation from May to October in this location. The best time for visiting Xieng Khouang is during March to May when the temperature levels are comparatively warmer. However, if you don’t mind putting up with a bit of chilly weather the months between December and January are the ideal time to visit this destination and enjoy the lush greenery surrounding the Mekong Delta range. The mountain landscape in this location is untouched, mostly unexplored and breathtakingly beautiful and it is home to several indigenous tribes representing simple lifestyles. The area is presently under consideration as a UNESCO world heritage site.

Getting there & away

The nearest airport is in Phonsavan. Lao Airlines offers six flights a week in peak season and four flights in low season to Vientiane. Flights between Luang Prabang and Xieng Khouang are available once a week.
Note: flight schedules are subject to change.

If you are travelling from Vientiane you can either take VIP buses or local buses. The buses leave from the northern bus terminal and take about 10-12 hours. Note: The roads are paved but there are plenty of serpentines. The bus trip from Vang Vieng takes 7-8 hours. Buses run daily from Luang Prabang via Route 13 and 7 and take 8 hours. You could also hire a minivan in either Luang Prabang or Vientiane. If you want to travel from Pakbeng/Nong Khiaw you take the bus to Xam Neua via Route 1, get off at Nam Ngeun and take the bus to Phonsavanh. Coming from Vinh or Hanoi in Vietnam visas are available on arrival at the Nam Ka border, which is open daily from 6:00 – 18:00. The bus from Vinh leaves four days a week and takes 12 hours, form Hanoi there is one bus per week.

Transport within Xieng Khouang: This is an inexpensive the cheapest option and allows one the opportunity to het to know Lao people better. However, bear in mind, that most local public transport does not leave or arrive according to the set time table. Public vehicles typically leave once they are full and stop to pick up and drop off passengers along the way. It is also important to understand that leg-room and space on public vehicles is very limited. Prices for public vehicles outside Phonsavanh are pre-determined, so bargaining is only necessary for the jumbos in Phonsavanh town.

To get to other towns in the province you can take local buses or pick-up trucks. Inside Phonsavan there are plenty of Tuk-Tuks, which might not be available without prior booking very early in the morning or late at night. A normal tour inside the town should cost 3000 to 10000 LAK. There are 9 travel agents in Phonsavan that arrange bike, motorbike and car rentals. A bike costs depending on quality from 20.000 Kip per day. You can rent mostly scooters for about 100.000 KIP. To rent a minivan costs about 50-80 USD, a 4WD costs over 100 USD. This includes or excludes gasoline, depending on the company. All prices vary hugely depending on season and availability.

Public transportation is available from 3 different bus terminals. Service locations for each bus station are as follows:
Provincial Bus Terminal: This is the terminal were VIP buses depart/arrive from Vientiane and Luang Prabang, and local buses depart/arrive regulrly to/from Vang Vieng, Xam Neua, Paksan, Vinh and Hanoi in Viet Nam. The terminal is located on Route 7 about 3km west of town.
Nam-Ngum Market Terminal: Song taews serving the southern districts Khoun, Phaxay and Mokmai leave from the market. The terminal is located on Route 13 going south, next to the Tourist Information Centre.
Phonsavanh Market Terminal: From this terminal Song taews and local buses go to Phou Koud District Paek, Muang Khoun, and Nong Het District.
Note: Price may be subject to change.

Sightseeing & Activites

 
Mineral Springs

The hot springs of Muang Kham are situated approximately 52km north of Muang Phonsavanh. Owned and operated by government organizations, the pool where the hot water bubbles up, can be reached by following a path parallel to the Hot Springs Resort, this pool is strictly off limits to the public but makes for some interesting viewing. The resort consists of a number of old-fashioned style bungalows where electricity runs from 18:00 to the early morning, with its water supply coming from the fresh springs.

For those who wish to frequent the hot springs, staying at the resort is part of the package. The mineral springs are within a wooded area where bamboo rigs have been built so that you can bathe nearby. Baw Noi is the smaller spring that feeds into a stream, here visitors can bathe where the cool stream waters meet with the warm waters of the springs.

The Plain Of Jars Highlights

Opening Hours: All year round
Location: Around Phonsavan, the main town of Xieng Khouang Province in Northeast Laos. Site 1 is about 15km southwest of Phonsavan and has about 300 jars. Site 2 is about 25km south of Phonsavan and contains about 90 jars spread over two hills. Site 3 is about 35km southeast of Phonsavan and contains about 150 jars. It’s actually only 10km away from Site 2.
How to get there: It’s easy to hire taxi (4WD and driver) from Phonsavan to the jar sites or visitors can catch a local bus to Site 3 but not site 1 and 2

Foods & Drink

Eating options are not particularly varied in Xieng Khouang; the vast majority of restaurants serve traditional Asian fare. The usual French influences can be found in the coffee, baguettes and pastries but the chic fusion menus of Luang Prabang and European cuisine found so readily in Vientiane are less likely to be savored here. All the same, food in hotels such as the Malay is more than adequate and probably the best in town.

Some restaurants feature a few European dishes, but we advise you to stick to what the chef knows and really get stuck in to some traditional Laotian cooking.